13-19 August 2008

We took to the skies with our bikes and put our clocks forward again. Tajikistan and the pinnacle of our journey is imminent. Tehran farewelled us with a final conversation with an English language student and another public holiday. Dushanbe welcomed us with with cool beers, a cool head (sans headscarf) and great hospitality from the people we’ve met.

Tehran
Back to Tehran and our Tajikistan visa quest continued. The icing on the cake was when, after two long taxi rides on consecutive days, we were issued a two week visa that started two days before our scheduled arrival in Tajikistan. We thanked the consulate very much for his generosity (!) and departed knowing that we would have to extend the visas in Dushanbe if we were to cycle the Pamir Highway.

We spent a day packing up our bikes in preparation for our flight from Tehran to Dushanbe, Tajikistan. It took a long time to gather large cardboard boxes from appliance and whiteware shops. If a little scruffy, we were still proud of the two resulting packages that bore the usual Spencer-Murray innovations. We had arranged a large taxi for 5.30am to take us and our precious cargo to the airport, but the two-door Peugot 106 that rolled up did not cut the mustard. In an appropriate departure from Iran we managed to hail a Paykan. The driver put the bikes in the boot and secured its lid with a piece of bungy. We nearly choked on the fumes coming into the back of the old beast but made it to Imam Khoemeni International Airport in plenty of time to have our bikes repacked (at the request of the airline staff). We were requested to pay USD60.00 excess baggage but quickly negotiated this down to USD40.00, paid for by SEPA (leaving present).

We looked down on Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan from our seats on Tajik Air, visualising where we could have cycled had visas been easier to obtain. The airline that is banned from British airspace due to its poor safety record surprised us with its professionalism and excellent breakfast. In 1993 a domestic Tajik Air flight crashed shortly after take off and it was discovered that it had 81 passengers in its 28 seats. It was a relief to be reminded that women actually do have hair and bums when we boarded the flight, with the flight attendants wearing trousers and no headscarves.

Dushanbe, Tajikistan (GMT+4)
Dushanbe is the capital of Tajikistan, with a recorded population of 600,000 but with the uncounted population its numbers are likely to be closer to one million. The Civil War in Tajikistan lasted from 1992 to 1996, when 60,000 lives were lost and half a million refugees fled the country. Today the country’s economy is reliant on the million Tajiks working abroad, mainly in Russia, and sending money back to their families. According to the Lonely Planet, in 2006 over 70% of Tajik people lived on less than USD2 per day.

Staying in central Dushanbe it’s difficult to imagine the reality of these statistics. The centre is based around Rudaki, a long, leafy avenue bordered by pastel-coloured neoclassical buildings and grand presidential palaces and monuments. After Tehran this comparatively clean air and restful atmosphere is a relief.

Notes and experiences of two travellers extending visas and waiting for travel permits
Colourful ladies: the traditional dress is a long and flowing with shoulder pads and light trousers underneath. Hair is tied into a headscarf leaving the neck exposed.

Aid agencies/charities: seem to be everywhere, giving an indication of what must lie beyond these central pristine streets.

Exceptional expats: Marydean, Middy and Andrew have given us a roof over our heads, sound advice and good company. We’ve had an insight into Tajik culture that would have been otherwise inaccessible. We would not have managed to get our visas extended and would have exited to Kyrgyzstan immediately if not for these fine souls. Middy and Andrew’s blog is at http://shwagger.typepad.com/pamirs

Alcohol: we’re back on it! Beers are good. A morning tumbler of vodka followed by a shot of radioactive green pop while picking up the loaf for breakfast is popular.

Back in the blocks: the Soviet-era apartment blocks are not as numerous as in eastern Europe but have even better quality style.

Bureaucracy: we are well-acquainted with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs office, security guard, office staff members and forms. We spent around 10 hours over three days at the office and eventually extended our visas. It took perseverence and patience, and the occasional girly smile and manly soft handshake. It was surprising to see piles of peoples’ personal data being leafed through by other visa applicants. Fuel for a media frenzy in the UK and NZ. The end was nearly in sight – we then needed to get OVIR registration and GBAO permits, the latter to allow us to travel in the Pamirs. USD170 poorer and three working days later Hansafar Travel obtained these for us (the best agency we think, although a bit more pricey than others).

Customer service: lacking. Like the queueing system.

Weddings: many. Rach, your talents would be in high demand! Apparently there is an explosion in weddings now as Ramadan starts next week. Dresses are huge and very white.

Fountains: to rival Hamiltron (city of the future and the Fountain City).

Gold teeth: cosmetic or necessary? The question is yet unanswered. Watch this space.