The pedals have stopped turning …
We arrived back in New Zealand, weary but elated, in mid-December 2008. Since then we have got married, returned to employment and settled into “normal” life… and now it’s time to reflect on our six month cycling adventure and start planning the next installment.
Our challenge was to travel over land and sea towards New Zealand. We left our jobs and our flat in Edinburgh, packed our panniers and pedalled our way across eastern Europe, the Middle East and central and southeast Asia to end up at home in New Zealand. The terrain was diverse, from riverside cycle paths to mountain highways. Our cycling was interspersed with ferries, trains and buses.
We hope you enjoy sharing our journey with us.

46 comments
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June 3, 2008 at 3:25
mum
lucky first to visit – good luck to you both. look forward to following your journey
June 3, 2008 at 7:14
Craig and layten
Hey.
When do you leave? Have a good trip. Hope you get some new experiences.
From layten
June 3, 2008 at 10:35
Margaret and Hugh
Thanks so much for linking us up. You probably didn’t get our email yesterday wishing you all good things for the journey. We’ll certainly be travelling with you, so to speak.
This must surely be the most intrepid journey anybody in the family has undertaken. You must be very excited but with a tinge of walking into the unknown. You’ll be exercising all the senses, I’m sure. Do take care.
It will be great to have you back in NZ.
Lots of love,
M and H XX
June 4, 2008 at 9:41
Wagerbat
And they’re off…
We waved goodbye from Granton Harbour yesterday evening to the distant forms of Di and The Rolling (Robert) Scab aboard the B-Star 1 – though it may have been a couple of Dutchmen.
A gloom has descended on number 9 G. Park Avenue since their departure, though the glumness is tempered with anticipation at the tales of adventure to come. Edinburgh won’t be the same without the Mugabes, but Edinburgh’s loss is the World’s gain, as the Kiwis spread their vestigial wings on the long flight home.
We’ll miss you more than words can say…and if I tried to speak them I’d only blub (sorry about that). So here’s to them…
See you round and down in Hamilton Town.
Love,
Bat.
June 5, 2008 at 9:11
Bennet
Y’alright Pal. How’s it going??? Just a quickie to let you know that we can send the solar panel to a Youth Hostel in belgrade. Its a Hostelling International one called Jelica Milovanovic near to the centre at:
Address: Krunska 8, 11000 Beograd, Srbija
Phone: +381-11-3304809 +381-11-3304802
Fax: +381-11-3304808
E-mail: info@hostels.org.yu
Let us know if thats cool. Catch yous laters. Bennet
June 9, 2008 at 8:12
gills
Hey Guys!!
are you sure you want to go through iran and iraq??
June 9, 2008 at 13:21
The Doctor
Alright Robet and Di?
Hope the start of your trip has gone to plan and everything is working out for youz. Everything is alright back here, just looking forward to getting out to Croatia on Holiday now.
All the best for just now.
The Good Doc
June 11, 2008 at 14:32
Roger and Sandy
Finally heard through the grape vine, that you were off. We both really enjoyed your company when you were back here, Rob. I just hope your backside wont be too sore after riding all day long. I should’ve given you some of that cream for the journey.
Our love,
R+S xxx
June 12, 2008 at 16:35
Maree
Hey Guys,
Was down in Edinburgh yesterday and heard your fantastic engagement news, congratulations to you both!! Glad to see your getting on well and will look forward to keeping up with your adventures.
All the best,
Maree x
June 14, 2008 at 2:16
john kane
Cool stuff Rob and Di, enjoy it. Might see you down this way
Cheers John & Katie
June 15, 2008 at 9:07
Muswells
Hi Di and Rob
.
Wondering where you are today?
The people I have told about your adventure all drop their jaws in astonishment, it really is such an awe-inspiring journey!
All is good here, Em is home and seeing Nicky later too, so briefly all together again later today
We all wish you a tres bon voyage!
Love Jan et al. xxxx
June 16, 2008 at 4:58
Neil Lewer
Congratuations on your egagement!Hope the trip goes well and you arrive safe and sound in New Zealand.
Brenda and Neil Lewer
June 17, 2008 at 9:20
Nev & Carolyn
Hi Rob & Di .What an adventure !! It will be great to follow your progress.Hope all goes well .Then it will be great to see you in N Z again.We are both well and Deb & Roger and Harry & Ruby are all doing well .Maureen gave us your website .Thanks for letting us join in .John & Katie are going on a months holiday to the Virgin Islands..big adventure too.Well all the best and cheers from Nev & Carolyn
June 17, 2008 at 21:21
Anne & Bob
Congratulations to you both on your recent engagement. Talked to Mum last night and told me of your website. Wishing you the best – wow what a trip. Looking forward to following your journeys
Love
Bob and Anne
June 17, 2008 at 23:06
Wicked man
Concrete slurry and Diana Spencerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Hope you don’t get any flatties.
luv you heaps.
June 18, 2008 at 13:41
victor
Hi !
I’m the guy from outdoor shop in Sofia’s center. Sorry but forget to give my phone number in case you’ve got any problems in Bulgaria.
0898683288
Hope everything is OK and I do not lead on you suggesting to visit Rhodopi mountain. Take care and have a trip without problems.
June 19, 2008 at 11:32
The Patient
Sex is cool, so is cycling.
June 19, 2008 at 11:42
Davin Ryan & Beth Howison-Ryan
rob murray, do you remember me mate? Davin Ryan 2002 london, been back in oz for a while now, relocated to newcastle nsw, not bad better weather than vic, mate you still travelling! sometimes i wish i was doing the same! Just married april 26th to my lovely wife beth! having a good time. enjoy watching your trip home buddy, good luck and if you are ever in sydney or newy drop us an email would be great to catch up for a beer! cheers mate have fun be safe!!!!!!!!!
June 19, 2008 at 12:16
Dave Shannon
Hi Rob and Di
Good luck for your trek, I just found out from Janet Shepherd about it. I’m hoping to do something similar in the near future, maybe as a career break from SEPA.
Dave
Field Chemistry
Aberdeen
June 21, 2008 at 0:56
Nic Rowan
Hi guys!
Hope your having heaps of fun on the road. Looking forward to seeing your pic’s when you get here.
Still trying to get that book from my mate Mike regarding his biking adventure, will fire it through to you when I get it.
I hope all is well.
Travel safe.
Nic
June 23, 2008 at 21:33
Mary and Pete
Hi Di and Rob! Didn’t get chance to wish you well and a safe journey “home” so glad to have this opportunity. You are a great couple and looking forward to reading about your adventures and ….”ye’ll tak the high road and we’ll tak the low road and maybe we’ll be in Hamilton afore ye!” We’re over in Feb 2008 for definite and so we’ll have a drink together down under! Take care of yourselves and have great fun!
Mary and Pete
July 2, 2008 at 10:32
gills
Hey guys!!
Good to hear you are having a great trip!
Congratulations on your engangement!!
Ray and Niv never told us, boys are rubbish.
Anyway Michele and I have started saving for our flights to NZ and Diana please let us know what colour our bridesmaid dresses will be.
Sweet
gills x:-) x
July 19, 2008 at 10:22
Fleur
Hey guys – Big Congrats on engagement – Just been reading about all your travels – not sure if you really brave or really stupid – just kidding – I think you’re both amazing for following through with dreams…
Keep it up and I’ll keep following reports – remember there is a comfy bed at end of it all!!!
Look after each other,
Love Fleur and Rex
July 20, 2008 at 0:49
Andrew George
Hey Rob & Di,
What you guys are doing is amazing! We found it hard enough going up hills in the heat in our camper van – let alone trying to bike them!!
We’ll be keeping up with your journey and living vicariously through you!
Congrats on the engagement.
Keep on truckin’
Andrew & Claire
July 23, 2008 at 21:52
Robin
Hey you guys. Gutted I missed your leaving do. Great website thing. Good effort. Dont know where you find the technology or time to do it. Anyway, jusging by ur pics, blog, etc ur obviously havin an ace time. Well done on gettin engaged. Quality. Bout time too. Also. Try and eat more food!
Kenny says hi, and is forlornly trying to think of something funny to write.
Take care guys!
Robin
July 30, 2008 at 2:32
ngaatawhainga creagh
Hi Di and Rob!
So I have FINALLY found my way to your site, and am loving what i see..the photos are awesome, and make me dreamy!
and the journal is so engrossing! again, making me dreamy 
You two are oficially my international portal to the world outside of nappies and domesticity…which is going swell.
I hope you two get your visas sorted, and are able to get on with the trip…and im really looking forward to reading the next instalment of the spencer-murray sagas, to see whether an embargo was indeed enforced!!!
Lots of love from me all the way back home…
Nga-Atawhainga
August 6, 2008 at 14:41
mahdi shakeri
Hi dear Robert and Diana!
I hope you both are good ,and be fresh and kindly just as the day i visited you.the idea of having a site to make me connected is wonderful.
As i know,now you must be in city of Isafhan.I hope you enjoy being there and have fun.Don’t forget to see tese places:
Garden of Flower(bagh-e gol)
Garden of Birds(bagh-e parandegan)
and Imam square.
these are well-known places that you might have heard about them.
If you were back in tehran,call me if you liked = 09124011028.
Mrs. Diana if you read this comment,”take it easy” always,as you told me
good luck friends.
August 18, 2008 at 22:02
Foot'e
I hope you guys are collecting bottles of pear cider for me as you go?
Hope your gooch is good Rob.
August 19, 2008 at 6:32
jameskilbride
Found any Double Browns or Valiants in the ‘stans?
September 4, 2008 at 17:13
Jim Dillon
Hi Rob, Don’t know if you remember me but I was on the SEPA induction with you at the Queens hotel. I am now back at SEPA on another temp contract. I was talking to Ian Mcniven, asking how you were getting on and he told me what you were up to. It sounds and looks fantastic. Hope you are well and will be following the rest of tour trip avidly. Don’t know why you didn’t cycle through the Hellman province. I hear it is lovely at this time of year. good luck.
September 16, 2008 at 11:08
Erin
Hi Di and Rob. What a great journey. What a beautiful country and beautiful people. Nice to hear a different, real and more positive description of the people and place. Keep safe and look forward to reading more.
Love Erin
October 16, 2008 at 4:21
Barrie Murray
Well hello from sunny Iraq.
Sorry! For not being in touch until now however (great excuse coming now) But I’m still in downtown Basra at the moment, nothing like the holiday paradise it sounds like lol.
I’m here until Mar 09 and am really busy at the moment mentoring the Iraqi police force and doing some other work as well.
Hope your having the journey of a lifetime and enjoying every minute of this great adventure. I will make a point (time permitting) to catch up with your progress when I have a few spare moments to myself.
So until the next time
Best of Luck
Baz
October 20, 2008 at 4:08
Frank
Hi! Di & Rob:
This is Frank, nice to meet you in Chengdu yesterday. Hope you are OK in E-mei Mountains. I suggest you come to Kunming, Dali, Lijiang and Shangri-la in Yunnan province. Show me some beautiful photos on your trip.
Frank
October 29, 2008 at 4:13
Nicole & Jimmy K
Hello intrepid cyclists….I just checked out your latest pictures….once again truly awe-inspiring. Hope the the fun and adventures are continuing in China….can’t wait for the next installment. Kia kaha.
x
October 31, 2008 at 17:25
Matt & Mafi
Teeea? Teeeea?
Not sure why it’s taken us so long to say hi but a BIG one from the both of us! ‘Hi’ that is – not ‘nut’.
So glad to hear you’re both well and raking in the ks. The pictures and journal are fantastic!
I jacked in my job the other day and we’re off to do a ski season in Alps as chalet hosts – not sure what or where after that – took some inspiration from you guys to go for it!
Take care guys!
Nut & Mafi
November 12, 2008 at 10:23
Lesley Jolliffe
HI
Greetings from Stockbridge Health Centre! I have read your blog with interest during your trip not just to check out the quality of our travel medicine service but have been fascinated to read your tales. Sounds as if Kyrgystan made the expense of rabies vaccs well worthwhile!
Cold, wet and windy on a good day right now in Edinburgh so suspect China is welcome relief. Keep enjoying your trip and best wishes for a safe finish.
Lesley
November 22, 2008 at 10:41
Bruce Bokor
Dear Diana and Robert
I just received an email from Kung and Kim in Phrae along with a photo of you in Nok Bin. I am really pleased that you decided to go there, and hope you enjoyed it.
I too am in Chiang Mai at the moment and would love to see you if you have the time. I plan to leave for Phrae on Wednesday.
I am staying now at Walai House, Soi 3. Santisuk Road, which is about 1 km NW from the North west corner of the moat, near an intersection called “Hah Yaak”"
Tel: 05 335 7321
Bruce
November 24, 2008 at 5:32
bine&uli
Hi Di and Rob,
thanks for you guestbook entry on our webpage! we are still quite in the north of china, maybe too north in my opinion, as the temperatures are -9 degrees inside the tent during the nights and still very cold during the day. but the sun is shining, the mountains are all snowcovered, and we can pitch up our tent in the desert, that is all very nice.
yes, my little asus friend is a very nice one, i come along very will with him…
ok, we both hope you are still enjoying your trip, stay healthy and keep on cycling…
lg bine&uli
December 8, 2008 at 3:14
Andrew Hicks
Di and Rob,
I met you at the door of The Atlanta Hotel in Bangkok as you anxiously arrived on wheels from the bus station without a reservation and we later chatted.
Let me reassure everyone that you looked on amazing form, fit and healthy after a truly remarkable journey.
Congratulations and best wishes for the next part of life’s journey.
Incidentally if my name appears as “Thai Girl” that is the name of my recent novel and of my blog that you can find at http://www.thaigirl2004.blogspot.com.
Best wishes,
Andrew Hicks
December 10, 2008 at 4:12
Jane V P
Hi Team! I bet your bums aren’t sore now that you’re home!! Yahoo!! We soooo can’t wait to see you very soon
)
x
December 18, 2008 at 9:36
Sandy
Hi Rob, what’s it called????
Cumbernauld!!!!!
Have been dropping into your site to check your progress, it sounds like you have a had a great time on two wheels.
Have a good Xmas when it comes mate, you might be over the dodgy tummy by then!!
April 8, 2009 at 21:09
Gills
Hey!
Congratulations!! Hope you guys are enjoying married life!
Your photos are amazing, you’ve had such a fantastic trip home to NZ.
Keep this fab website going!
take care
gills x:)x
May 16, 2009 at 9:43
Greg Brownıng
Hi guys.
I’m also doıng a bıg cycle rıde and am lookıng at gettıng the flıght from tehran to dushanbe lıke you two. Could you tell me what day ıt ıs on and where you booked the tıckets from? am havıng a lıttle trouble workıng out vısas wıthout knowıng of the flıght detaıls? Any ınfo as soon as possıble would be amazıng, thanks.
Greg
May 18, 2009 at 9:11
diandrob
Hi Greg
We got a bit stuck in Iran (visa nightmare for Tajikistan) and consequently cash was tight, but we found a UK travel agency run by a woman whose brother runs a branch in Tehran – we ended up booking our flights through them and paying by credit card. It was more expensive but our only option. The website is: http://www.persianvoyages.com/home.php
From memory, flights with Tajik Air leave on Tuesdays and Saturdays. We flew on a Saturday. It’s hard to find the timetables but there’s lots of travel agencies and airlines along Nejatollahi St that will be able to give you information/do the booking for you if you have enough cash.
Another tip is that we spent a whole day trawling the streets of Tehran trying to find suitable cardboard boxes to wrap our bikes in and then doing the wrapping – only to get to the airport and be told we had to get them re-wrapped there! Also they charged us for having too much weight but we found the rate was negotiable.
Good luck! Great time to be visiting Tajikistan, enjoy.
Di and Rob
January 8, 2010 at 23:51
Emma
Hi,
I stumbled across your website when trying to figure out some of the logistics for a cycle trip we’re planning over the next couple of years. It sounds like you had a fantastic trip and has given me some idea of what we’ll expect when we jump out of England and into the unknown.
Just wondered if you could shed the light on a couple of things:
How did you get your bikes across Russia? Did you ship them, is it as easy as that?
How did you get visas for China without being in the UK?
Cheers
Emma
January 31, 2010 at 1:05
diandrob
Hi Emma
Sorry it’s taken so long to reply. Our cycling trip was an adventure of a lifetime – we’re jealous that you’re just setting off!
We didn’t actually go across Russia, but I believe that you could put your bikes on a train if you don’t want to cycle it? http://www.seat61.com is a great train website if you haven’t already discovered it. We went through Turkey, then Iran, then we had a short flight from Tehran to Dushanbe (Tajikistan) as we didn’t have enough time (or energy!) to get visas for Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. We then went to Kyrgyzstan and crossed into China over the Torugart Pass.
We struggled to get Chinese visas mainly because the Olympics were on at the time we wanted to get in. It is possible to get them when you’re on the road but I think it could involve a bit of waiting around. We both have dual nationality so we sent our UK passports back to some friends in the UK and they got our visas on our behalf, and we continued our travels on our NZ passports in the meantime. Embassies do change what they say about the regulations in different countries and you need a lot of patience! It’s good talking to other travellers you meet on the way.
Good luck! Happy travels. Get in touch if you come to NZ as we can share a few tips for here too.
Di and Rob